Cosmetic Chemistry

As of 2008, the world's largest cosmetic companies are L'Oréal, Procter & Gamble, Unilever, Shiseido, and Estée Lauder.

The 1st company to include zinc pyrithione in anti-dandruff shampoos is Proctor & Gamble. That was discovered by scientists at Proctor & Gamble in the 1950s, and 1st launchest in 1961, as Head & Shoulders. Adding ZnO to it stabilizes it, which was approved in 1977 as a Japanese patent, and in 1979 as a U.S. patent.

Chelants, like EDTA or and citric acid, are added to shampoos to bind and sequester metal ions such as Ca²⁺, Mg²⁺, Fe³⁺, and Cu²⁺. Chelants do not bind to keratin, which is the main structural protein in hair fibers. EDTA is ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid.

Niacinamide, which is a form of vitamin B3, is used in skincare such as enhancing ceramide production, help prevent dryness and retain moisture, and managing oily skin and acne. Hindustan Unilever (a subsidiary of Unilever) patented the Fair & Lovely cream in 1971, highlighting niacinamide's role as a melanin supressor, and launched the cream in 1975.

The combining of niacinamide with vitamin C led to a fear of the formation of nicotinic acid, potentially causing skin irritation, in the 1960s. However, these studies involved conditions with high temperatures and prolonged exposure, neither of which are typical in standard skincare usage. This research was finalized in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in 2004.

For example, OLAY super serum uses these 5 main ingredients: activated niacinamide in low pH, a derivative or vitamin C (3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid), collagen peptide (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4), vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate), and alpha hydroxy acid (lactic acid).

Hydroxypropyl beta-cyclodextrin, which is ativated by water, was the secret ingredient in Febreeze, was 1st launchest in March 1996, and by June 1998, it was no longer a secret ingredient. The molecules trap and bind volatile odor compounds within its ring structure, effectively reducing their volatility and smell.

2003 is when relaxers used to straighten hair were being replaced withp polymers. Relaxers used alkaline chemicals like NaOH and ammonium thioglycolate. They were being replaced by formaldehyde-releasing polymers, which helped the polymers cross-link.

According to multiple industry reports, the leading players in the sunscreen/suncare market are:

-L’Oréal S.A.: Holds over 18% of the global market, the largest share among all companies.
-Beiersdorf AG (Nivea, Eucerin, Coppertone): Around 14 % global market share.
-Johnson & Johnson: Included among the top 3 in sun care products.
-Procter & Gamble (P&G).

The 1st sunscreen, invented in Australia by chemist H.A. Milton Blake in 1932, formulated with the UV filter "salol" (phenyl salicylate) at a concentration of 10%. Its protection was verified by the University of Adelaide. In 1936, L'Oreal released its 1st sunscreen product "Ambre Solaire," formulated by French chemist Eugène Schueller, who founded the company in France. 1978 is when the FDA requires all sunscreens with the SPF rating.

In 1957, Plough acquires Coppertone, then in 1971, Schering Corporation merges with Plough to rename Schering-Plough.
In 2001, Playtex Products bought Banana Boat (which was started by Robert Bell in 1992), but was then bought by Edgewell Personal Care in 2007 (see full details below).
In 2007, Playtex Products bought Hawaiian Tropic for $83 million, but was acquired by Energizer Holdings later that year for $1.16 billion. In 2015, Energizer Holdings spun out several businesses including Playtex Products into a new company called Edgewell Personal Care.

The 1st companies to introduce sunscreens containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as active ingredients include Banana Boat and Coppertone, in the 1990s, as micronized versions. This was eventually to replace earlier chemicals such as PABA (Para-Aminobenzoic Acid). Water-resistant sunscreens were introduced in 1977.

PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid)
PABA was 1 of the earlier sunscreen ingredients, before being discontinued. According to a 1982 paper from The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, titled "The Sensitization of Near-Ultraviolet Radiation Killing of Mammalian Cells by the Sunscreen Agent Para-aminobenzoic Acid," it acknowledges that PABA is "1 of the most widely used" ingredient in sunscreens. And it concludes, "In summary, our results with mouse lymphoma cells in vitro clearly demonstrate increased cell inactivation by near-UV radiation when PABA is present. However it must be strongly emphasized that these results may not be taken as evidence that PABA will be photocarcinogenic in human kin in vivo. Nevertheless it is felt that topically applied pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations, particularly sunscreen agents, should be screened for their effect on induction of damage by near-UV radiation and that in vitro tests may contribute information to a suitable screening protocol."

Oxybenzone
Oxybenzone has been used in sunscreen since the 1980s. In 2021, the U.S. FDA changed their classification of oxybenzone and no longer regard it as GRASE (Generally Recognized As Safe and Effective) due to the lack of data to support its safety despite it being the most common UV petrochemical filter. As of 2019, oxybenzone is used in 70% of sunscreen products, commonly used at 6% in sunscreen (also the max allowed in the U.S.), is a recognized endocrine disrupting chemical (EDC) and is small enough to pass through skin and placenta barrier. According to a 2006 article from ScienceDirect, between octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate, and itself, it is the most lipophilic and the only of the 3 found in urine.

Avobenzone
Unlike PABA and oxybenzone, avobenzone does not absorb UV-B (only UV-A), and was approved by the FDA in 1988. However, PABA being effective against UV-B, was not effective against UV-A. Oxybenzone is effective against both.

Note: see the Microbiology.html page, for some sunscreen pigments that are produced by some bacteria.

About 75% of sunscreens are not as effective as they claim, in May 2025.

Only 498 out of 2,204 SPF products met EWG’s criteria. When EWG 1st launched its Guide to Sunscreens, in 2007, the market was flooded with formulas packed with chemicals like oxybenzone, an ingredient now linked to hormone disruption and environmental harm. Many sunscreens put marketing claims ahead of product safety and efficacy. Over the years, as research exposed the potential risks of certain sunscreen ingredients, consumer demand for safer, more effective products has reshaped the industry.

All trends and percentages this report refers to are based on EWG’s analysis of recreational use sunscreens in the Skin Deep® database. The figures the report cites reflect EWG’s data and not industry sales data.

Consumer preferences and product formulations shifted significantly in the almost 2 decades since EWG’s 1st sunscreens guide. They include an increase in SPF numbers on products, the decline of oxybenzone and vitamin A (retinyl palmitate), and the rise of mineral-based sunscreens (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide). These 2 ingredients are the only active sunscreen filters generally recognized as safe and effective by the FDA.

Of 51 sunscreen products evaluated:
In 2007, mineral-only formulas (ZnO and TiO₂) made up a mere 17% of sunscreen options available for EWG scientists to review. In 2025, mineral sunscreens account for 43% of the products they review.

The fall of oxybenzone and Vitamin A
In 2016, 70% of non-mineral sunscreens contained oxybenzone. That number dropped to 60% in 2019, 40% in 2021, and 9% in 2025. The shift reflects growing awareness of oxybenzone’s high absorption through the skin and other potential health harms, including disruption of the hormone system, as well as its harmful effects on aquatic and marine ecosystems.

Similarly, research has shown that vitamin A can degrade in sunlight, potentially accelerating rather than preventing skin damage. In 2010, 41% of sunscreens contained vitamin A, dropping to 14% in 2017, then 3% by 2024, and 2% in 2025.

Federal sunscreen rules have remained largely unchanged since 1999, leaving consumers to navigate products with uncertainty.

Spray sunscreens
In 2007, spray sunscreens made up just under 20% of the market, rising to 27% by 2016. As of 2025, their share has declined to 26% of sunscreens in EWG’s Skin Deep database. But the inhalation risk remains, and controversy lingers, especially after multiple recalls because of contamination by benzene, a known carcinogen detected in aerosolized sunscreens in 2021, 2022 and 2023.

Undisclosed fragrance
The use of undisclosed “fragrance” remains a persistent issue in some sunscreens, which leaves consumers in the dark about what they’re being exposed to. In 2025, 36% of sunscreens contained fragrance blends – many of which may include allergens, hormone disruptors and even carcinogens.

High SPF sunscreens
Only 10% of sunscreens reviewed in 2025 have SPF values higher than 50. In 2007, just 5% of sunscreens in the guide had SPF values over 50. High SPF sunscreens provide only slightly more UVB protection than lower SPF products. When used correctly, SPF 50 blocks about 98% of UVB rays, while SPF 100 blocks approximately 99%. Sunscreens with SPF values between 30 and 50 offer sufficient protection for most consumers when properly applied. SPF ratings mostly measure UVB protection (not UVA), which is responsible for deeper skin damage and aging. Many high-SPF sunscreens also rely on SPF boosters that may inflate SPF numbers without truly improving broad spectrum protection.

Butyloctyl salicylate is part of a class of chemicals, called salicylates, along with other sunscreen active ingredients homosalate and octisalate. An assessment by the European Union suggested classifying these chemicals as potential reproductive and developmental toxicants, due to metabolism to salicylic acid in the body. Animal studies show salicylic acid and some other salicylates can harm reproduction and the developing fetus. As a result, the EU prohibits salicylic acid in products for children under age 3 and recent assessments by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety recommend additional restrictions for salicylic acid and some other salicylates in kids products. The EU is currently assessing this group of chemicals, but more research into health risks are needed.

For this reason, EWG’s list of best sunscreens for babies and kids restricts the use of butyloctyl salicylate because younger skin is more vulnerable to product absorption.

In 2023, a dozen years after the FDA classified formaldehyde as a human carcinogen, the agency tentatively scheduled to unveil a proposal to consider banning the chemical in hair straighteners. However, the government has not acted on this. DMDM hydantoin was the most common formaldehyde-releasing preservative found, showing up in roughly 47% of skincare products and 58% of hair products that contained formaldehyde releasers. Approximately, 20% of lotions, which are frequently used, list these chemicals as ingredients."

9/2/2025.
The European Union is banning certain gel nail polish brands that contain TPO, or trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide. TPO is the chemical compound that makes gel polish harden under UV lights and gives it a glass-like finish. It is still legal in the U.S.